Thursday, 19 September 2024

20 September Sicilian Baroque

The tectonic plate dragging Sicily toward Africa has the effect of creating volcanoes and earthquakes.  In 1693 the cities of Eastern Sicily shook, collapsed and buried 60000 Sicilians. From the ruins emerged Sicilian Baroque. 

First stop for us was Noto where we tried another Sicilian invention, granita. Here the locals abandoned the old city and built a new one.  The style is gloriously over the top. No window or balcony was safe.

At Modica the city was rebuilt on the same spot - perched improbably on the sides of a gorge. 

Endless steps climb toward one of its two massive churches. For us though, our main memory of Modica was a trattoria which served us a magnificent lunch which began with big pots of soup.

Our final stop for the day was Ragusa Ibla. Here we climbed up into the city to a workshop which still makes traditional Sicilian carts, with numerous sidelines in bespoke painted designs for everyone from Malaysian millionaires to Dolce and Gabbana.  We plied the young apprentice with questions. Fascinating. 

Ẁe climbed further to the Town Square where the architectural jewel is the offset church of St George. We marvelled while sitting in a cafe with more granita and shaken coffee.

Afterwards we wound through the streets, past cats and more views, to the minibus.

We all dozed while Antonio drove us the the fancy agriturismo where we showered, dined and crashed. Saro told us we have a "big day" tomorrow. Can it get any bigger?

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