Morning to Evensong

When I looked out the window of  our B&B at Talyllyn this morning I was momentarily confused by the apparent disappearance of the lake. You see the water was so still that it perfectly reflected the mountain above it - right down to the sheep moving across the slopes. It was one of many occasions I wished I was a photographer rather than a tourist with a mobile phone. We asked our host about our journey today and he assured us it would be rather boring and we should just get it done.

Only a few miles down the road we came to a waterfall called Dolgoch.

Further on I pulled over into a lay by to let some cars pass me and looked at this view along the coast. We were now in a region of black sand beaches. Two other cars were pulled over too. I looked up to see birds of prey gliding above us in the thermals. Lyn and I have become quite the birdwatchers - not that we know what we are looking at, it is just we keep noticing them. The couple parked behind were toting a large camera and scrambling for an even bigger lens. While his wife wielded the camera the gentlemen explained that I was looking at rare and iconic birds, red-tailed kites, and this very spot was one of the few places to see them. He pointed out the finger-like feathers on the wings and the distinctive tail (“like a google arrow” said Lyn). 

A little further on we came to Aberaeron which was one of the places Dylan Thomas went drinking with his mates. It claims partly to have inspired his “Under Milkwood”, which is about a fictional fishing village called Llareggub (“bugger all” backwards). Apparently Aberaeron once had bugger all going for it. It’s rows of identical little houses crowd the streets. The rocky black beach has nothing much to recommend it. Then somebody had an idea which the town adopted with relish. Everybody painted their house a different colour. Today this place was humming. Where else would you visit on a sunny Saturday?

Further south still, Lyn was driving and saw one of those tell-tale little brown signs that indicate a nearby historic site. You’d think she’d run a mile from such things but she turned the car immediately. Having enjoyed Castel Y Bere on Friday, she obviously felt on a roll. “Look, an Iron Age fort!” The place is Castell Henlys. Archaeologists found the site easily enough by its massive earthworks and excavated the remains of a small community with the distinctive round thatched huts. Then someone got the idea and the money to use Iron Age methods and local craftsmen to build a replica in consultation with the archaeologists. Staff are on site to explain it all. I was fascinated by the place and a clever young woman was happy to explain everything from the construction methods to the loom. (Lyn may have been regretting her decision by then.) I asked about the clay oven and she confessed it had been made for a TV show. You know those shows where modern families have to live like people of the past - there was one here apparently.

We reached St Davids about 4.30 thinking to have a quick look at the cathedral of Wales’ patron saint. There has been Christian worship on this site for 1500 years. It is a jewel of a building but only the back of the church has stained glass. (Paid for by the officers of the local Welsh regiment in remembrance of those who died in the Great War.) Sometimes things just work out for you. As we entered we were asked if we were here to look, or staying for the special Evensong at 5.00. This event was in part to honour local scholars who had passed exams of the Royal School of Church Music. We stayed. There were two choirs, the community choir and the Cathedral choir, as well as the assembled clergy and the scholars being honoured. The music was glorious. One of those times when the hair stands up on the back of your head and tears start.

So, a dull drive south but we got it done.