Red, fat and learned

While Rome is 'the Eternal City' and Venice is 'La Serenissima', the serene one, Bologna is "the red" or "the fat" or "the learned". So today we explored Bologna some more. 

The Red
This is a reference to the politics of Bologna and its distinctive red brick architecture.

Our first stop was Salaborsa. As we approached it we saw a sign in memory of the resistance to fascism and Germany in WWII. Below it was a gut wrenching memorial. There were hundreds of photos of those who died in the struggle. There were whole families. Below is a small part of it. 

Inside it is a medieval building with art nouveau ceilings housing a huge public multimedia centre. In the centre is a perspex floor revealing the Roman ruins beneath. Next to that was a display about the city's competition for designing a Holocaust memorial. Impressed. 

To get a sense of the distinctive streetscape of Bologna, you need to see the arcades - kilometres of them! This is is a photo from the Piazza Santo Stefano of a typical scene. 

On the way here Lyn found yet another door knocker and insisted I photograph it.

The Fat

At lunch today we found Bologna's Mercato Centrale. Everywhere there are fresh food stores. It is a wonder they can all make a living. We shared a plate of meats and cheeses and an excellent local red at a communal table. An old gent called Umberto introduced himself. He was up for a chat with tourists from Australia. He was 74 years old and holidays in the Canary Islands every year. His English was limited and my Italian extremely poor. Which ensured that Lyn spoke more than anybody else ...

On the way home from our adventures I bought another fruit tart. Raspberry this time - bliss. Lyn wants me to buy a belt but If I stay much longer in Bologna my jeans will fit perfectly.

The Learned

Bologna has the oldest university in Europe. Today we visited the anatomy theatre, with slab and sculptures of skinless bodies, and a lecture theatre which smelled of the old books lining its walls. As always, the ceilings and walls were pretty flash.

In the Basilica of San Petronius a local astronomer created a meridian line - sort of a sundial for the days of the year.

CEphoto, Uwe Aranas

Chiesa San Giovanni in Monte

We looked for the entrance to another cathedral but got lost - but we did find a display of Italy's current favourite clothing - the puffy jacket. (In Venice we saw a small dog in a pink puffy jacket.)

However, my favourite place today was the Sanctuary of Santa Maria Della Vita. It is a small church with a set of 15th century terracotta sculptures by Niccolo dell'Arca called 'Lamentation over the dead Christ'. I have never seen anything so powerful. The scene was probably inspired by the artist's observations of real life and death in the nearby hospice. The hospice has been supported for centuries by pilgrims looking at this artwork. Upstairs was the Oratorio with more art and a stunning modern photographic portrait gallery. 

Signing off for today: still red, slightly more learned for the experience, and a little fatter too.

P.S. To all those who expressed sympathy and concern (no-one), my toe is a little better.