Ostia

Up until today this had been an Italy trip almost completely free of ancient Romans. Today the empire struck back.

We demonstrated our skill with Roman public transport by catching the tram to Trastevere, the bus to Pyramide and the train to Ostia Antica. Little known now, Ostia was the port of ancient Rome at the mouth of the River Tiber. It flourished for hundreds of years but the course of the river changed, the port silted up and Ostia became an abandoned mosquito infested malarial swamp gradually disappearing in the mud. (One of those mosquitoes quickly sampled Lyn.) Today the archaeologists have recovered what is left of Ostia and it is pretty wonderful. 

Crossing the highway bridge from station to town we were reminded of the disadvantages of living in a country where smoking is still fairly popular. Almost all the litter you see here is cigarette packets and butts.

Once in Ostia it was quiet compared to Pompeii. The tour groups that were present were almost all German and, as everybody knows, rules and knowledge are serious matters to Germans. The site is huge and (unlike Pompeii) you can wander and explore. This gives time for quiet reflection. Even Lyn enjoyed it.

I found Themistokles in the little museum.

On the other hand, the place is clearly not being cared for as you might expect. This is an example of the "protection" provided for a floor mosaic.

There was a sign at the entrance explaining the difficulties and expense of maintaining such a massive site. True. But really! Is plastic sheeting or a tin roof expensive in Italy? One of the glories of Ostia is a huge collection of mosaics. They were on display, in situ, open to the elements. ("Well at least tourists can see them" you might be thinking.) Actually - no - they were half obscured by dirt and drifts of pine needles. One man in two hours with a leaf blower could have solved the problem. Sometimes I despair of these people. (Every time I catch myself wishing that the Germans were running the other bits of Europe I remind myself it has been tried - twice.) 

On the whole though, it was a wonderful day, although Lyn's reserves of stamina had been lowered by exhausting shopping excursions on previous days.

P.S.

Reading over this post I realise I sound like some arrogant tourist criticising the foreigners. Perhaps I need to head home soon for a bracing ride on our embarrassing public transport while looking at streets decorated with fast food litter and beer bottles. Quick cure.