Blind Venetians

In 1204 the blind leader of the Venetian Republic, Doge Dandolo, hijacked a crusade headed to Egypt to capture Constantinople. This wasn't a case of guide dog malfunction, it just suited Venice. For centuries, Venice ruled the waves in the eastern Mediterranean and dominated northern Italy as well. In an age of kings and sultans, Venice was a republic. This afternoon we visited the centre of Venetian power, the Palazzo Ducale. It was a tribute to both Venetian shock and awe and the tedious checks and balances which prevented any single person or group from siezing control of the state.

There were state rooms and council chambers and archives and prisons and Titians and armouries. For centuries, Venice was about as romantic as a battleship. People didn't want to see Venice before they died, they feared that Venetians would kill them.

Grand Staircase, Mars, God of War on the left, Neptune, God of the Sea on the right, subtle.

Palazzo Ducale

The Golden Staircase leading to endless chambers with so much gold on their ceilings that their weight alone is causing Venice to sink.

Outside government offices the mouths of these heads led to chutes inside. Cîtizens could write notes denouncing their fellow citizens to the authorities and post them.

St Theodore killed this poor dragon. In an act of civic cynicism the Venetians decided St Teddy wasn't important enough and then stole the body of St Mark from Egypt to replace him. 

After our visit to the Palazzo Ducale we went in search of a bookshop for Lyn. We found books - and jewellery, scarves and handbags. Further shopping is clearly on the agenda. 

In our travels Lyn found the Church of San Salvador. It is a relatively humble place, only two Titians and a Bellini. Lyn made friends with a nice man selling postcards there to help pay for the maintenance of the church. Back in the day, when the Austrians were besieging Venice, a cannon ball hit the church. With nice sangfroid the locals left it there and inscribed the date.

Safely home we collected our washing and prepared to relax.

P.S. We are staying near a little shop called Tre Mercanti. It specialises in different versions of tiramisu. I confess this aspect of the Vevetian Republic has overwhelmed my defences.