Going for Baroque

The other possible title for this post was, 'If it ain't Baroque don't fix it.'

This was another day blighted by problems from home. Lyn is not well and I suspect that stress is largely the cause.

We finished the task of self guiding ourselves around Lecce's baroque churches. 

This a medieval fresco with a breastfeeding Mary.

This is remarkable because the ceiling is paper mache (carta pesto). So is this statue of Judith doing her thing. She looks a bit like she's on something.

Getting the Duomo into a single photo is a challenge. Also below is an Italian tour group in the crypt, with dogs.

The shrines epitomise Baroque. Incredibly skilful and completely over the top.

The grill above this one is significant.  The church was run by the Poor Clare's whose modesty required them to observe the services from high up and behind the screen.

After an afternoon rest we went to Carlo V's Castle. We passed a carto pesto workshop and a puppet shop on the way. We booked a castle tour for tomorrow and walked back to the Faggiano Archaeological Museum. This is a local house. Mr Faggiano wanted to improve the drainage under the ground floor of his family home so he could open a trattoria. His home renovations turned into an extraordinary archaeological adventure.  Supervised by professionals, the family uncovered a Renaissance convent, a Templar house, Roman storage, wells, tunnels, a Messapian house and tombs. They have kept this amazing place open and run it themselves. In the first photo below you can see one of the Faggiano lads telling the story. Mr Faggiano sold us our tickets.

The vaulted ceiling of this room was made up largely of clay jars.

From the roof you can see the historical/modern hodgepodge that is Lecce.

We ate out. The local food was delicious. 

Otranto and the Salento Coast

We spent the early morning hours trying to cope with stress from home so the omens weren't good. Nevertheless, by 10.00 we were ready to roll on a day trip with our driver Roberto and his wife, Sandra.

Roberto's English was serviceable and we all chatted away amicably with the occasional aid of Google translate.

First up was two and a half hours in Otranto. The town was stunning on a hot Mediterranean morning.

The first marvel was the cathedral's medieval mosaic floor. The whole floor is covered with Biblical and mythical imagery. It was sort of marvellous that much of it was obscured by the functioning of a real place of worship. In the photo below, the hand of God reaches out to Noah under a pew. You can clearly see Cain belting Abel and plenty of images of the unpleasantness of hell.

On another level, literally, was the crypt, which was the original church, complete with fragmentary frescoes. 

Further up the hill was the massive castle. There were lots of carved stone cannon balls, and an interesting display on the region's neolithic history. The view from the walls was great too.

On a completely different scale was the Byzantine era San Pietro church. My attempts to photograph the interior without the bald gentleman in shot were, as you can see, a fail.

After lunch, we headed South along the coast. 

We walked to a photogenic old bauxite quarry.

We visited Italy's easternmost point.

Then there were a series of rock formations and beaches on this holiday coast.

By this time, Lyn, who hasn't been well, was starting to fade. We decided not to go swimming, though it was certainly hot enough and beautiful.

Our final stop was the instagrammable spot called Grotta Della Poesia. The signs said that swimming was forbidden. Roberto cheerfully explained that this did not stop people from swimming there - but it did stop EVERYONE from swimming there. As you can see.

 

All in all, after a tough start, it was a day to remind us why we travel.

Getting Our Bearings

Breakfast this morning at the local bar/pasticceria consisted of cappuccinos and our first taste of a cornetto, pasticciotto and rusticci lechese.

After breakfast Lyn was still feeling wobbly but we set out to explore Lecce and to find some laundry liquid. We found far too many baroque churches, basilicas and cathedrals than seemed possible. This is partly because we were walking in circles, but mostly because there are a lot of them. 

While looking for the duomo we walked into the funeral of a young man whose coffin was being carried through a vast crowd of mourners. Every so often the procession burst into applause. 

We also found the remains of the Roman amphitheatre. Lyn found the randomness of a first century ruin amongst the baroque and modern buildings particularly arresting. 

Later I went out to find an ATM and found another Roman theatre. Also a Banksy!

I took Lyn out to see the theatre and then we checked out the neighbouring  gallery/museum. 

In a square we found gelato and a famous clock.

We finished our explorations with a proper visit to the Basilica. It is not in a piazza so it leaps out at you suddenly in the narrow street. 

A little later we were walking home and a kid was playing football outside ... very Italian.

Train and Feeling Crook

After dinner on Friday, Lyn felt sick. Writing this on Sunday morning she is still wobbly. Luckily, yesterday consisted largely of travelling by train from Rome to Lecce. She slept much of rhe journey. Then we walked to our accommodation in the historic part of town. Then it was off to the supermarket. We have an apartment to ourselves so, if Lyn improves, we should be comfortable. 

St Cecilia and Taking it Easy

After yesterday's exertions we voted to have an easy day. 

Trastavere has two famous churches but we'd never found St Cecilia's open until today. It is quite lovely. Moderna's famous sculpture is impressive and the apse is very similar to S. Maria in Trastavere. 

We then braved the heat by crossing Trastavere to find the Botanical Gardens. On the way Lyn ran into our Israeli friend from breakfast. We discussed St Cecilia's improbable martyrdom.

 The hot summer and a distinct lack of weeding meant that the 5€ entry was poor value. We reached the pretty fountain area to have the ambience ruined by the only staff member doing any work - a gentleman with a very loud leaf blower!

Lyn wanted to shop but found nothing of interest except an excellent gelato.

On the way Lyn continued her usual commentary of the failure of tourists to wear hats. She took great satisfaction when she passed an American who was saying, "I should have brought that hat." 

We rested away the rest of the day.