Last day in Lisbon

We had a full day in Lisbon before our transfer to the airport. We left our packing to this morning and didn’t check out till 11.30. We left our luggage at the hotel and set out for an afternoon of sightseeing. 

First stop was Carmo Convent and archaeological museum. This place seemed to prove my theory that monasteries look best when ruinous. There were exhibits related to the site, but also various other artefacts from elsewhere in Portugal. 

We then went in search of lunch. The big tourist restaurants on Commerce Square were convenient but their service was abysmally slow so we found a hamburger joint with awesome food. We had hamburgers without the bread and with plenty of salad.

Next door was the church with a half hour organ recital. We enjoyed this. I was struck by some questions. How many churches and cathedrals have I been in? All have organs. Why do you never hear them?

After the concert we walked in search of an ATM. I found some sculpture.

We took a taxi to Jerónimos Monastery and the archaeological museum. Lyn decided it was time to demonstrate how much archaeology she had learned. She took me on a tour, pointing out numerous artefacts and identifying them with considerable accuracy. I was impressed.

The monastery disproved my theory that monasteries are at their best ruined. This place is spectacular.

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Another taxi ride took us to the Belém Tower. As he drove, our driver pointed out the memorial to the fallen in the “colonial wars”. These conflicts, along with with the dictatorship, obviously still weigh heavily on Portugal. As with Spain, this country has a recent history that is still raw.

There is a monument to a tranatlantic flight and the Belém tower itself which has guarded the mouth of the Tagus for over 600 years. A cruise liner was passing by. We admired the enormous explorers monument from afar. I had a Cher moment and Lyn had the camera.

It only remained to get to our airport transfer and board the first of our 3 flights home.

May Day

For a city which is supposedly one of the new ‘it’ places to be, Lisbon sure shuts down a lot. National Day was the 25th April. On Monday national monuments were closed because it was - Monday. Today, May 1st, was a national holiday, and the same places closed again!

It didn’t worry us though. Yesterday was a gentle reminder to me that if you travel to see a list of places and do a list of things, then that way disillusion lies. The trick is openness. To travel is to be privileged and with that, hopefully, comes good grace and some manners. So what did we do?

I thought the ruined Carmo Monastery and museum might be open so we headed that way. It wasn’t, but before I could stop her, Lyn had wandered through a door labelled ‘Museum, Free Entry’. We found ourselves in the Museum of the National Republican Guard. It turned out to be fascinating for all sorts of reasons. It holds the usual collection of gorgeous uniforms, military hardware and other knickknacks. This being Portugal, there were galleries of beautiful tiles, including depictions of the military throughout history. It has a rear balcony with one of the most stunning views in Lisbon. Every room is guarded by a friendly young soldier. The upper floors are preserved as they were on 25th April, 1975 in memory of the Carnation Revolution. Portugal’s last dictator took refuge here in what was then a barracks. After one hothead sprayed the place with machine gun bullets everybody seems to have taken a deep thoughtful breath. Nobody needed to die. People stuck carnations in the gun-barrels and the dictator and his friends handed over power. 

All of this is interesting enough but the real attraction for many visitors are the motorcycles. The place is full of them, starting with WWII vintage Nortons and continuing into various 1950s models.

Then we heard music and hurried downstairs to discover that there was a changing of the guard happening outside. We couldn’t see much but when we got outside a fine-looking fellow was now protecting this peculiar mix of militaria, tiles, motorcycles and 1970s furniture.

We walked downhill to investigate river cruises. Lyn decided that we should cross the Tagus in the ferry and then come back again. She made this decision, not because it was the cheapest option (it was), but because it was the biggest and safest vessel she could find. Along the way we found sand sculptures.

Before departure time we explored the cruise terminal and then the Alfama area. We found ourselves back at the cathedral. The inevitable happened. Lyn prayed and lit candles and I took pictures of sarcophagi. I was interested in two rather different depictions of how to spend time in the Afterlife.

Then we bought a cheap lunch and ate it while crossing and recrossing the Tagus.

Walking back towards the hotel we found a fascinating church facade. It turns out the entrance portal was the only bit that survived the great earthquake. We raced inside because there was an organ recital happening but only caught the last few bars. We might try to catch it tomorrow.

Lyn and I parted company shortly after. Lyn wanted shopping time. I wanted to buy a razor and have a rest. I returned to the hotel with a razor and Panadol. Lyn returned with ice cream and The Times.

Rest time followed. Lyn sat at the window and watched the biggest cruise ship leaving and then had a siesta.

We decided our last night in Lisbon should begin on the waterfront watching the sunset. A busker added to the ambience with some Eric Clapton and Dire Straits. Then we went to an Italian restaurant. We have had enough of Portugal’s endless pastries and fish. At dinner we discussed our next trip. Sicily perhaps.

We have a full day in Lisbon tomorrow before we need to be at the airport.